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Seed Saving Advice

Some Seed Saving Advice, by Lydia S.

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Currently I have a couple hundred tomato seeds in my supplies. For the moment, I am focusing on cv. "Raincross Rock" as that is saved seed for a variety I happen to be developing. If I continue to grow and save this variety each year, those few seeds pretty much means that my friends and family (and hopefully many generations into the future) will be assured of a bounty of tomatoes each year. Such is the promise of seed saving!

However, not every plant in every place is a great candidate for seed saving. Plants have rules, too, and while the rules are simple, it is really best to follow them. Thus, this guide.

First of all, it is usually best to save from known varieties that are either heirlooms or open-pollinated. Both of these categories represent stabilized cross-breeds that will tend to breed true. Thus, if you save a "Roma" tomato, the seeds will also show "Roma" characteristics. The difference between these is that heirlooms come with a lineage which is at least 50 years old and sometimes a great deal older than that, while open-pollinated crops are newer, but they are still generally stable and very useful for seed saving. One caution here is to never save from a variety that is labeled "PVP", or “Plant Variety Protection.” That's essentially a plant patent. These people have invested thousands of dollars and seeds in protecting their work. Please be mindful of their efforts.

Obviously, a plant grown from vegetative tissue-- like potatoes, yacon, oca, garlic, some onions, horseradish, etc.—will be genetically the same as the parent plant and are thus obviously true to type.

Hybrids represent what is essentially an unstable cross. In other words, if you save the seeds of a hybrid pepper, the plants the next year will probably resemble the parent varieties used to make the cross more than they will the plant that was expected. Sometimes this can be useful if trying to make foundation stock from which to breed one’s own variety, but in general it is best avoided. There are a multitude of reasons not to save anything with genetic modifications, either. At the top of that list is that all of those genes are patented and cannot be used in any way, which can lead to civil litigation trouble.

Assuming an heirloom or open-pollinated variety, one needs to know what type of genetic tango the species uses. There are two basic divisions—incrossers and outcrossers.

Incrossers have a variety of pollination mechanisms that ensure a high level of self-pollination. Such species—tomatoes, peppers, lettuce, peas and beans are great examples—usually do not require much isolation from other plants to stay true to type. Ten feet of separation pretty much guarantees purity. Additionally, it is not necessary to save seed from as many individuals. Often, it is possible to save seed from a single specimen without harming its genetic bounty.

Most crops, however, are outcrossers. Outcrossers are a bit pickier. First of all, they like to spread their pollen widely. These crops often use the wind or insects to help spread the pollen between different individuals to assist in the process of maintaining as much genetic diversity as possible. This means that to keep a variety of corn absolutely pure, it might need an isolation distance (distance between varieties) of two miles! This might be a little less depending on the local winds, but generally speaking it is a lot more than the home garden can hope to achieve—particularly if there are neighbors growing a different variety! Also, it is necessary to find a large number of individuals to save seed from. Outcrossers are prone to something called “inbreeding depression” which is essentially a lack of genetic diversity through the generations. Inbreeding depression can cause yield or vigor loss. It is caused by either not saving seed from enough individuals or from trying to save from individuals that are too similar. The number of individuals needed to be saved from varies by species and can range from 6 plants to as many as 200!

Additionally, some crops require special treatments such as fermentation or being saved over the winter so that they will go to seed the next year. In places like southern California , it is relatively easy to vernalize such a crop so it will go to seed, but this can be a bit more challenging in climates with severe winters. The key is that the plant needs to experience cold conditions that are then followed by enough warmth to trigger the reproductive process. For example, in Riverside , California , Zone 10a, chard planted in February often would flower in May of the same year. The increasing warmth of spring was enough to trigger vernalization. To do the same in southern Colorado , the chard would need to be kept alive through the winter either through mulching of roots (cutting back the greens) and season extenders or by harvesting and saving the roots in a cool, humid area.

Here are a few crops for the amateur seed saver to consider.

Beans and Peas

Beans and peas are among the easiest of crops to save, which is one excellent reason that they are a popular component of the “seeds in a can” gardens. If the beans get to harvest stage, it is not hard to get them to the seed saving stage: simply allow some to grow beyond the edible harvest stage until the pod is nearly dried out. At this point the pod will probably be tan or yellow. Shell the beans gently from the pods and allow to dry at room temperature. If they are hard like a dry bean that would be cooked with, then they are ready to be saved. The beans are strong incrossers and require trivial separation between varieties. Simply plant one variety per plot, and separate bean plots with a different vegetable.

Peas are treated almost identically: wait for dry pods, shell, dry at room temperature, and store. Saving enough pods at the end of the season to make up for what was planted that year is a very sustainable practice.

Tomatoes

Yes, I’m coming back to tomatoes. Since I am working on my own variety, I do have some experience in saving tomato seed. Tomatoes are pretty much incrossers. To save from multiple varieties, about 10 feet of spacing between varieties is generally needed. An exception is the potato-leaved varieties, which need a bit more spacing. The cross that resulted in the formation of Raincross Rock came from two vines that were practically touching.

I am a proponent of fermenting tomato seed. Some people merely dry it, but others say fermenting helps reduce disease. It is really not that difficult. Save only from tomatoes that are fully ripe red (or whatever the ripe color is). When slicing open fruits to dry them, have a spoon and a glass at the ready. Scoop the seeds and the surrounding tomato gel from the fruits and place that in the glass before slicing the tomato into slices for drying. When there are enough tomatoes for a batch, there usually is a nice glassful of tomato seed goo. Put a paper towel over the glass and set it on top of the refrigerator or somewhere out of the way. Wait several days until a mold has formed. Scoop off the mold (along with seeds embedded in that) and throw it out. Rinse the remaining seeds and dry them. They tend to stick to paper towels; aluminum foil as a surface to dry on works reasonably well. At this point they truly need to be in a dry, wind-free location. Once the seeds are dry, they can be bagged for saving.

Basil

Is it possible to discuss tomatoes without discussing basil? There might be a law about that. Basils are outcrossers whose pollen is primarily insect-carried. As a result, a considerable distance (100-150 feet) is needed between varieties to keep them true. Alternatively, try using a screening cover that prevents insects from getting through. Or, just simply save seed from one variety at a time.

       To save seed, stop pinching the basil (if doing so) and allow the flowers to form. Once the whole stalk has turned brown, it has died, and the seeds can be harvested. Carefully clip the whole stalk over a plate or bowl. Sometimes the seeds can just be gently tapped from the stalk into the bowl, but often they will need to be gently crushed and then winnow the chaff. The seeds are black, the chaff is brown. Use sieves as much as possible and then gently blow the chaff, which is light, from the heavier seed.

Squashes

The first thing to remember is that there are multiple species of squashes, although they all belong the genus Curcubita. It is very possible to grow four types of squash and still maintain pure seed saving so long as they are all from different species. That is important as squashes are outcrossers. The pollen is primarily carried between plants by insects, but this can mean separation distances of ½ mile or more.

As an example of accidental crossing, and I doubt one of my friends will ever forget this: I planted what I thought were her zucchini seeds and wound up with this sprawling giant plant that threw white crooknecks. Well, as it turned out, the cross was a good one and we’re anxiously waiting to see if the next generation holds true. But this was entirely an accident, as she had forgotten that she had another Curcubita pepo in her yard. We were lucky that the inadvertent cross was more serendipity than disaster!

Therefore, be very careful which species being planted if the intention is to save seed. The saving process itself is not hard. Let the squash grow far past harvest time, and then harvest when it is totally ready. It can sit another few weeks. Then cut the squash open. For summer squashes and zucchini, just save the seeds. Of course, for winter squash all that yummy flesh needs cooking and freezing or eating. In either case, rinse the seeds clean of debris and dry them on a towel. Once totally dry, they can be bagged.

In conclusion, hopefully this will inspire responsible seed saving, with an eye towards maintaining the genetic legacy that is indeed the inheritance of the heirloom and open-pollinated varieties. May all gardens grow and prosper!

Muffins, Muffins and more Muffins

SUNSHINE MUFFINS

1-1/2 C. flour

1 C. whole-wheat flour

1-2/3 C. sugar

2 tsp. baking powder

½ tsp. salt

¾ C. butter, melted

3 eggs, beaten

2/3 C. orange juice

1 tsp. vanilla extract

1 tsp. orange extract

1 T. orange marmalade

½ C. chopped walnuts

*In a large bowl, combine flours, sugar, baking powder and salt.  Add remaining ingredients; stir just until moistened (batter may be lumpy).  Fill greased or paper-lined muffin tins two-thirds full.  Bake at 350 degrees for 15 to 20 minutes or until top of muffins springs back when lightly touched.

SOUR CREAM BLUEBERRY MUFFINS

2 C. biscuit/baking mix…like bisquick

¾ C. plus 2 T. sugar, divided

2 eggs

1 C. sour cream

1 C. fresh or frozen blueberries

*Combine biscuit mix and ¾ C. sugar.  Combine eggs and sour cream; stir into the dry ingredients just until combined.  Fold in blueberries.  Fill greased muffin cups three-fourths full.  Sprinkle with remaining sugar.  Bake at 375 degrees for 20 to 25 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean.

BERRY CREAM MUFFINS

4 C. flour

2 C. sugar

1-1/4 tsp. baking powder

1 tsp. baking soda

1 tsp. salt

3 C. fresh or frozen raspberries or blueberries

4 eggs, lightly beaten

2 C. sour cream

1 C. canola oil

1 tsp. vanilla flavoring

*Combine flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt; add berries and toss gently.  Combine eggs, sour cream oil and vanilla; mix well.  Stir into dry ingredients just until moistened.  Fill greased muffin cups two-thirds full.  Bake at 400 degrees for 20 to 25 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean.  Cool for 5 minutes before removing from pans to a wire rack.

MORNING MUFFINS

¼ C. butter, softened

½ C. packed brown sugar

2 eggs

1 C. sour cream

1 C. shredded carrots

½ C. flaked coconut

½ C. raisins

1-1/2 C. flour

1 tsp. baking soda

1 tsp. ground cinnamon

½ C. chopped walnuts

*Cream butter and brown sugar.  Add eggs and sour cream; beat well.  Stir in the carrots, coconut and raisins.  Combine flour, baking soda and cinnamon; stir into creamed mixture just until moistened.  Fold in nuts.  Fill greased or paper-lined muffin cups three-fourths full.  Bake at 375 degrees for 20 to 25 minutes or until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean.  Cool for 5 minutes before removing from pan to wire rack.

BLUEBERRY MUFFINS

3 T. butter, softened

1 C. sugar

1 egg

½ C. milk

¼ C. water

2 C. flour

2 tsp. baking powder

1 tsp. salt

1-1/2 C. fresh or frozen blueberries

*Beat butter and sugar until crumbly, about 2 minutes.  Add egg; beat well.  Combine milk and water.  Combine the flour, baking powder and salt; add to creamed mixture alternately with milk mixture.  Fold in blueberries.  Coat muffin cups with cooking spray or use paper liners; fill three-fourths full with batter.  Bake at 350 degrees for 27 to 30 minutes or until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. 

Cool 5 minutes before removing to a wire rack.

BACON CHEDDAR MUFFINS

2 C. biscuit mix…like bisquick

2/3 C. milk

¼ C. canola oil

1 egg

1 C. shredded cheddar cheese

8 bacon strips, cooked and crumbled

*Combine biscuit mix, milk, oil and egg just until moistened.  Fold in cheese and bacon.  Fill greased muffin cups three-fourths full.  Bake at 375 degrees for 20 minutes or until golden brown.  Cool for 10 minutes; remove from pans to wire rack.  Refrigerate leftovers.

ZUCCHINI MUFFINS

¾ C. flour

½ C. sugar

¼ tsp. baking powder

¼ tsp. baking soda

¼ tsp. salt

¼ tsp. ground cinnamon

1 egg

¼ C. canola oil

1 C. shredded unpeeled zucchini

½ C. chopped walnuts

¼ C. dried currants or chopped raisins

*Combine first six ingredients.  Combine the egg and oil; stir into dry ingredients just until moistened.  Fold in the zucchini, walnuts and currants or raisins.  Coat muffin cups with cooking spray or use paper liners; fill three-fourths full with batter.  Bake at 350 degrees for 22 to 25 minutes or until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean.  Cool 5 minutes before removing to wire racks.

NUTTY APPLE MUFFINS

1-1/2 C. flour

1-1/2 tsp. baking powder

¾ tsp. salt

½ tsp. ground nutmeg

¼ tsp. baking soda

2 eggs

¾ C. sugar

1/3 C. canola oil

3 T. milk

1-1/2 C. diced peeled apples

1 C, chopped walnuts

*Combine flour, baking powder, salt, nutmeg and baking soda.  Beat eggs, sugar, oil and milk.  Stir in apples, nuts.  Stir into dry ingredients until just moistened.  Fill 18 greased muffin cups three-fourths full.  Bake at 350 degrees for 20 to 25 minutes or until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean.  Cool in pan 10 minutes before removing to wire rack.

FEATHER LIGHT MUFFINS

1/3 C. shortening

½ C. sugar

1 egg

1-1/2 C. flour

1-1/2 tsp. baking powder

½ tsp. salt

¼ tsp. ground nutmeg½ C. butter, melted

*Cream shortening, sugar and egg.  Combine dry ingredients;  add to creamed mixture alternately with milk.

 Fill greased muffin cups two-thirds full.  Bake at 325 degrees for 20 to 25 minutes or until golden brown.  Let cool for

 3 to 4 minutes. 

Meanwhile, combine sugar and cinnamon in a small bowl.  Roll warm muffins in melted butter, then in sugar mixture.  

Serve warm

Honey or Not?

Most Store-Bought Honey Isn’t Honey At All, Tests Show

Filtration process removes virtually all of the pollen naturally occurring in the product.

By Leah Zerbe, Rodale News

•  
 If you love using honey as a natural sweetener, this news may come as a buzzkill: More than 75 percent of the honey sold in the U.S. isn’t the unadulterated form that most consumers expect, according to testing performed recently by Food Safety News. In fact, most honey sold in the United States is processed through major filtration that removes virtually all of the pollen naturally occurring in the product. This practice would flunk quality standards in many of the world’s food safety agencies; in other words, it’s not technically honey anymore.

Beware of food label liesThe problem with removing these microscopic pollen particles is this: without the pollen, there’s really no way to trace where the honey originated, or if the source is safe and uncontaminated. (Previous reports have found honey laced with antibiotics and heavy metals.) And for this filtration to work, the honey is often heated, which can damage some of the natural products’ disease-fighting properties.

To analyze the state of honey sold in America, Food Safety News purchased more than 60 jars, jugs, and plastic bears of honey in supermarkets, discount warehouses, big box stores, pharmacies, and honey packets served in mini-markets and fast-food joints in 10 states and the District of Columbia. An expert in pollen in honey from Texas A&M University studied the samples and found most had the pollen removed, making traceability impossible. However, honey sold at farmer’s markets, co-ops, and natural stores contained normal amounts of pollen.

The Workaround: If you want real honey, look for local sources and buy directly from the beekeeper. By knowing where your food comes from, you can ask about how the bees are treated and how the honey is processed. Sure, raw honey might not be crystal clear like the little honey bear bottles you see in the store, but it’s swimming in health-promoting antioxidants and left in its natural form, which is definitely a good thing when it comes to honey.

Provided by Prevention

Wheat Jerkey

  Making Wheat Jerkey

Here's a wonderful wheat recipe that can be tailored to your own taste buds. Enjoy!

Wheat Jerky
Makes two dozen strips. Recipe can be doubled.

1 c raw gluten, made from washed wheat flour.
14 oz. of liquid bouillon, using beef soup base, or ham, or chicken, or 1/2 beef and 1/2 ham, or bacon  flavor 6 oz. water
1 tbsp. Maggi or Kitchen bouquet (natural coloring)
1 tbsp. liquid smoke
1/4 tsp. garlic powder
pinch of sea salt

Optionals: add 2 tbsp. honey (for a touch of sweetness)                 
1/4 tsp. tabasco sauce or cayenne pepper (for a dash of hotness)  

Begin with the raw gluten.
Roll it out into a slab shape to a thickness of 1/8 inch.
Cut 1 inch wide x 6 inch long strips of the rolled gluten. Set aside.

In a small saucepan, add all the other ingredients and bring to a boil. Drop the strips of cut gluten into the liquid, slowly stir gently and lower the heat, and simmer until most of the liquid is gone.
Drain the strips well into a strainer.
Put the strips back in the same saucepan and add 2 more Tbsp. of liquid smoke, and coat the strips well.
Place the jerky strips on a wire mesh cooling rack set onto a flat cookie sheet or, on your dehydrator mesh racks.
Dry in the oven at 300 degrees F for 25 minutes. 
Strips will shrink a bit. Dehydrator setting on "meats", and dry for 1 hour.
Test for moisture and consistency (to your liking) to adjust the requisite dehydration time.

Remove when done, cool thoroughly and store in a closed container.

The Steamboat Bertrand (canned food history)

Always keep in mind that a very important part of a food storage plan is to keep it rotated.  Items do get old and can spoil.  Temperature is another important factor in keeping food storage items at their best for taste and nutritional value. 

The Steamboat Bertrand sunk April 1, 1865 loaded with cargo headed for the goldfields of Montana.  The steamboat hit a snag and struggled to make it to shallow waters where it sank north of Omaha, Nebraska.  Although it sank on the Nebraska side of the Missouri River, the river subsequently meandered and was rechanneled, leaving the wreck deeply buried in silt well east of the Missouri.  It was excavated in 1968, funded largely by a private partnership attempting to recover large amounts of mercury that were believed to be on board, however only small amounts of mercury were recovered, and the remainder of the cargo became the property of the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.  Its cargo is now on display at the Desto National Wildlife Refuge in Iowa, and contains the largest intact collection of Civil War-era artifacts in the United States, including mining equipment, clothing, Indian trade items, military ammunition, plows, and tens of thousands of household goods including candles, canned goods and preserves, dishes, knives, other house wares, matches, pipes, and liquor.

Among the canned food items retrieved from the Bertrand in 1968

were brandied peaches, oysters, plum tomatoes, honey and mixed

vegetables.  In 1974, chemists at the National Food Processors Association (NFPA) analyzed the products for bacterial contamination and nutrient value.  Although the food had lost its fresh smell and appearance, the NFPA chemists detected no microbial growth and determined that the foods were as safe to eat as they had been when canned more than 100 years earlier.  The nutrient values varied depending upon the product and nutrient.  The chemists reported that significant amounts of vitamins C and A were lost.  But protein levels remained high, and all calcium values were comparable to today’s products.

Safety which leads to complacency.

Safety which leads to complacency.

But then something happens…

     The bizarre ice storm that covered Northeastern Oklahoma in December of 2007 left hundreds of thousands without power for a week or more in freezing weather.  Few were prepared.

In July 2008, a major flood took out a large portion of Iowa and a small part of Illinois. Hundreds of thousands of people lost power and it was a week or more before it was restored.  Water filled homes forced people to flee.  There was no drinking water because of contamination.  The sewers were flooded out. 

A few months later, Hurricane Ike hit the Texas gulf coast and devastated the area including most of the coastal city of Galveston.  Again, no power and all systems that we take for granted were disrupted.

Michael Leavitt, Secretary of the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, stated “Any state, any community or for that matter any citizen that fails to prepare, assuming the federal government can take care of them… will be tragically wrong.” 

While this was stated in regards to a disease outbreak it is equally true for any widespread massive tragedy.

Recently, a booklet was sent out about disasters.

Here is a review of suggestions to plan.

HURRICANES - to evacuate:

(1)  Preplan destination and route

(2)  Choose you type of transportation (which vehicle would be best suited to take your needed items)

(3)  What critical items should be taken (cell phone & hand crank radio)

(4)  Cash

(5)  Medications

(6)  72-hour kit

(7)  Rain gear – ponchos

(8)  Consider taking a bedpan in the vehicle, just in case you are stuck somewhere (where there are no facilities) for hours.  (Include cat litter as well).

To stay:

(1)  Shut off gas

(2)  Fill containers with clean water

(3)  Disconnect unnecessary appliances

(4)  Stay away from windows

(5)  Keep protected with blankets, cushions or mattresses

(6)  Crawl in the bathtub or a small closet

(7)  Do not decide to evacuate during the hurricane

(8)  Follow suggestions from the Red Cross or survival agencies

FLOODS – if you live in a flood plain:

(1)  Invest in an inflatable raft

(2)  Have a pair of wading boots for members of your family

(3)  Have rope to tether yourself or family members if forced to leave

(4)  Have a hand crank radio tuned to the weather radio channel

(5)  In case of little or no warning of a flash flood, have your 72-hour kit ready to pick up and leave as quickly as possible.

(6)  Never drive in moving water

(7)  Never walk in moving water (even ankle deep water that’s moving fast will knock you off your feet).

(8)  An emergency flotation device can be created with air trapped in heavy duty garbage bags and sealed with duct tape.

TORNADOES

While tornadoes can hit without warning, most local weather stations have excellent tracking systems.  If tornadoes are in the forecast, keep tuned to a weather channel or if the power has gone out, use your hand crank radio for updated reports.

(1)  Go to the smallest room in the house, possibly a hall closet or bathroom.

(2)  Pull blankets and mattresses over yourself and family.

(3)  Use rope to tether one another.

(4)  Have your 72-hour kit in a safe spot (to use after the storm passes).

(5)  If caught outdoors, move to the lowest place such as a ditch and lie flat.  Cover your head with your arms.

WINTER STORMS

Severe winter storms can affect air travel. Blocks roads, hinder emergency vehicles, shut down power and leave many in dire emergency situations.

                 Have on hand:

(1)  Rock salt

(2)  Sand for traction for your vehicle

(3)  Defroster spray can for frozen locks

(4)  Small pike (tool) for chopping ice

(5)  Keep your vehicle winterized and the tank full

(6)  Keep your emergency store in the trunk at all times

(7)  Add weight to your vehicle by placing something heavy, like concrete blocks in the trunk (or back of a pickup).

                       If caught in your car in a blizzard:

(1) Run the car for 20 minutes each hour to keep warm.

(2)  Periodically clear snow from the exhaust pipe

(3) Always have a light in your vehicle that can be used as a

           Signal for rescuers      

(4) Use anything – roadmaps, seat covers, floor mats to cover up and maintain body heat.

(5) Drinks fluids – make sure you keep a case of water in the trunk of your car.

WILDFIRES

Escaping a wildfire is especially dangerous and tricky.  More than ever it will be vital that your 72-hour kit is filled and ready to go at a moment’s notice.

While it is never easy to drive away and leave your home, don’t wait too long to evacuate.  If you’ve lost power stay tunes to emergency broadcast stations on your hand crank radio.  When the order comes to leave, do as quickly as possible.  Keep the gas tank full in your vehicle so you don’t have the worry of running out of gas.  And of course keep all survival items in your car at all times.

MUDSLIDES

While mudslides can come quickly, there are a few ideas and warning signals you can watch for after a hard rainfall.

(1)  Leaning street signs, utility poles or fences

(2)  Changes in your house – sticking windows or doors, cracks in the driveway or sidewalk

(3)  A rumbling or cracking sound

(4) Shifting in the ground

(5) Animals can give warnings – dogs barking and birds chirping more loudly than usual

(6)  Quickly grab your 72-hour kit and move as far from the sliding earth as you possibly can

(7) Following the slide, watch for downed power lines, sharp debris and other trapped people

We have seen many lists on suggesting items we should get for storage.  Each of us knows what our family will use and need.  It is always interesting to see what other people think is important for their storage.  Sometimes it will give us a good idea of something that might be important for our family to also store.

The following lists have items on them that one family decided was important to be in their storage plan.

FOOD SUPPLIES

(1) Rice, beans, wheat

(2)  Sugar, honey, syrups

(3)  Vegetable oil

(4)  Powdered milk

(5)  Condensed milk

(6) Tuna fish, canned fish/meats

(7)  Pasta

(8)  Cheese

(9)  Garlic

(10)                    Vinegar

(11)                    Canned or dried vegetables

(12)                    Flour

(13)                    Salt

(14)                    Yeast

(15)                    Oatmeal

(16)                    Popcorn

(17)                    Peanut butter

(18)                    Nuts

(19)                    Canned or dried fruits

(20)                    Crackers – soda, snack and graham crackers

(21)                    Canned soups

(22)                    Dried herbs

(23)                    Herb teas, cocoa, tang, punch mix

(24)                    Soy sauce

(25)                    Gravy, bouillon

(26)                    Pretzels, trail mix snacks

(27)                    Cereal

(28)                    Candies, gum

(29)                    Potatoes

(30)                    Spices, seasonings

(31)                    Jerky, meat sticks that don’t need refrigeration

(32)                    Ration of “instant” foods, prepackaged for long  

             term storage

FOOD PREPARATION AND HOUSEHOLD

(1) Hand can opener

(2)  Cook stove

(3)  Vitamin, supplements

(4)  Whisk, egg beaters

(5)  Baking supplies

(6)  Hand sanitizer

(7)  Bleach (unscented)

(8)  Aluminum foil (regular and heavy duty)

(9)  Garbage bags

(10)        Toilet paper, paper towels, tissues

(11)        Matches (strike anywhere)

(12)        Cast iron cookware, properly seasoned

(13)        Water containers

(14)        Survival guide book

(15)        Laundry detergent

(16)        Paper plates/cups/disposable flatware

(17)        Pocket knives

(18)        Long reach butane lighters

(19)        Mixing bowls

(20)        Cooking utensils – spatulas, turners, etc.

PERSONAL

(1) Baby supplies – diapers, formula, ointments

(2)  Feminine hygiene

(3)  Shampoo, soaps

(4)  Skin products

(5)  Thermal underwear, tops and bottoms

(6)  Work boots

(7)  Baby wipes

(8)  Men’s hygiene

(9) Toothbrush/toothpaste, mouthwash, floss

(10)                    Nail clippers

(11)                    Razors, creams, aftershave

(12)                    Reading glasses

(13)                    Socks, underwear, t-shirts

(14)                    Work shirts

(15)                    Rain gear, boots

OTHER SUPPLIES

(1) Generators

(2)  Water filters, purifiers

(3)  Portable toilet

(4)  Firewood

(5)  Lamp oil, wicks, lamps

(6) Coleman fuel, propane cylinders

(7)  Charcoal, lighter fluid

(8)  Washboard, mop bucket with wringer

(9)  Bow saw

(10)        Ax, Wedges

(11)        Clothes line and pins

(12)        Fire extinguishers

(13)        Batteries (all sizes)

(14)        First-aid kits

(15)        Gasoline containers

(16)        Guns, ammo, knives, slingshots, bats

(17)        Coleman’s pump repair kit

(18)        Insulated ice chests

(19)        Flashlights

(20)        Garbage cans

(21)        Bug spray

(22)        Duct tape

(23)        Candles

(24)        Tarps, stakes, twine, rope

(25)        Nails, spikes

(26)        Mouse traps and D-con

(27)        Dog food

(28)        Backpacks, duffle bags

(29)        Sleeping bags, blanket, pillows, mats

(30)        Cots and inflatable mattress

(31)        Hats and cotton neckerchiefs

(32)        Tents, waterproof tarp

(33)        Safety pins

(34)        Disposable or digital camera for

       documentation

(35)        Fire starters  (a large bag of dryer lint)

(36)        Plastic storage tubs (for rainwater storage)

(37)        Garden seeds

(38)        Fishing supplies

(39)        Bicycles – tire, tubes, pumps, chains

(40)        Knife sharpening tools

(41)        Canning supplies

(42)        Woolen clothing/scarf/mittens

(43)        Gloves for work and for gardening

(44)        Goats, chicken, poultry, rabbits

(45)        Lumber

(46)        Nail, bolts, screws, glue

(47)        Board games

(48)        Garden tool and supplies

(49)        Writing paper, pencils, solar calculator

(50)        Journals, diary, scrapbook

(51)        Boy scout manual

(52)        Paraffin wax

(53)        Hand pump (water and fuel)